Round-up: Best of the Blogs July 24, 2006Posted by scentbloggers in Uncategorized.
The best in the last week’s perfume blogging:
Anya at Anya’s Garden talks about White Light, White Heat, the white flowers, which, although deceptively fragile and innocent looking, are “the secret nose bombs of the perfume world.”
The Michelia alba blooms are like a piercing whistle, if the tuberose and lotus are like a violin.
Aromascope undertakes Project Random and does some spontaneous layering with remarkable results:
Kolnisch Juchten and Montale Jasmin Full – this can rival Bandit! Stinky and gutsy. Come closer if you dare. I’ll eat you alive, baby. Come and smell the jasmine in my dirty leather boots.
Legerdenez reviews Blue by Morgane Le Fay and finds it both understated and evocative:
Blue by Morgane Le Fay aims to conjure the blue of evening. It gives the sense that you can touch the contours of smells you cannot see in the dark. Once again, understatement is not to be underrated.
Perfume Critic revisits a profession of a fragrance model:
I loved my time as a fragrance model and consider it one of the most enjoyable part-time gigs I’ve ever worked. I showed fragrances to customers, made samples and gift baskets, shmoozed a lot, and met a lot of nice people. I had sales quotas I was expected to meet because let’s face it, to earn $20 an hour, you’ve got to ensure that your presence is responsible for sales.
March and Patty at Perfume Posse agree to disagree on the new scent by Serge Lutens, Chypre Rouge. Patty thinks that it smells “of desperation and bitter, bitter regret, and really rotten B.O.”, while March Has A Moment:
Okay, the finale — the supremely perfect, I kneel-at-your-feet part, is that this thing really does smell red. Not red like wine. Or a sunset. Red. If you were going to assign this fragrance a color in your head, red is your color. Think … cinnabar. Chinese lacquer box. Ancient spices. Dust.
Mr. Colombina at Perfume-Smellin’ Things shares “the harrowing experience of the perfume-ignorant male shopping for fragrances”:
The perfume counter sits in the middle of the department store … the furthest spot from any escapable exit. It is the cornerstone of the three most perplexing commercial entities to the common male …. The jewelry counter …the cosmetics counter and the perfume counter. History records the voyages of many brave male souls who have ventured into this Bermuda Triangle of feminine zones, never to return. What are the strange forces that dwell in this world? UFOs? Prehistoric creatures who’ve sought refuge and managed to escape man’s detection? Or is it some other supernatural power from Madison Avenue and Rue De Folie?
At Perfumery, an unusual interview takes place: Andy Tauer, a perfumer, interviews Sands, a perfumer lover…Says Sands:
Strangely I had smelled Eau de Lavande from Goutal when I was 20 in Paris, and it all came flooding back–standing transfixed staring at Cabotine in Venice on the Piazza San Marco, realizing even then in Paris that Annick Goutal was A PERSON…it all made sense. I re-discovered niche brands (started with Rose d’Ete from Rosine), began to take this interest very seriously and started to search for shops and information, books, have begun to search out contact with perfumers as artist colleagues etc.
Scentzilla reviews Coty Sands and Sable and finds that it smells “retro kitschy…but in a good way”:
Sand & Sable is not a fully functional fragrance. By that I mean it smells like someone chopped off the ends of an imaginary perfume bandwidth on it. There’s not a top per se, nor is there a real steady and strong base. It’s mostly heart notes, but the heart is big and full, simple as it is. Wildly bright gardenia, waxy tuberose, and distinct sensations of tanning lotion are the notes I smell. The effect is creamy and rich, despite the lack of development that you ordinarily get from more expensive fragrances. Once you take into account that it’s going to be a big block of scent, Sand & Sable is as enjoyable and as fun as many of the big house and niche/boutique releases.
Smelly Blog begins Osmanthus Marathon and discusses Hermes Osmanthe Yunnan, Keiko Mecheri Osmanthus and Ormonde Jayne Osmanthus:
Osmanthe Yunnan is another citrusy osmanthus, much in the same vein as Ormonde Jayne’s rendition of the flower. The osmanthus note here is buried gently under myriads of sheer veils of citrus and tea. It is subtly floral and complemented by the green floral notes of freesia, which also lends it a somewhat peppery accent – an interesting counterpoint to the apricot-skin top notes of the osmanthus flower. I like the way the tea, with its acrid and peppery personality is mingled with the greenness of osmanthus. Osmanthe Yunnan is a subtle, well done scent – but whatever amount of osmanthus there is in Osmanthe Yunnan – I still find it very under-satisfying.
Sweet Diva writes a love letter to Keiko Mecheri Loukhoum:
I repeat: There will be others. If we’re going to spend time together, this is just something you have to come to terms with. But no matter how I feel about new scents I try, no matter how I feel about those from the past that I loved (and may still love), I’m telling you, I want you around. You’re special to me. You really are. Why does love have to be so hard?
Teacakery continues The BPAL Project and reviews Bordello:
The name is quite a misnomer and the description lost in this oil. “lusty”? Well perhaps in a very airbrushed portrait of a cathouse you might find wine and crushed fruit skins signifying “snarls of pleasure”. I am more of a Mitsouko girl.
Victoria at Victoria’s Own examines a new Guerlain scent, Bois d’Armenie and judges it not particularly appealing:
Very different for a Guerlain, none of the Guerlainade here. The fragrance opens with a light medicinal benzoin note. Slowly it turns more and more like the scent of a smoky wood fire. In the final stages it softens to a barely there incense note, very close to the skin. At one point it really does smell like the burning papers of my headshop youth. While the idea of smelling like warm, woody incense, is romantic and appealing, the truth is you smell like pieces of burning incense paper. Not really all that appealing when you actually put it on. At least to me. Dry, incense, wood fire, smokiness; is just not my idea of a perfume scent. A touch of sweetness with a little more floral would have made this infinitely more wearable for me.
You Just Want Me for My Big Dic… tionary July 17, 2006Posted by scentbloggers in You Just Want Me for My Big Dic... tionary.
Hi, and welcome to first of several special features we hope to offer here at Scentbloggers. You Just Want Me for My Big Dic… tionary will define perfume terms you will come across frequently in fragrance articles, but might not necessarily use in everyday converstaions.
Sillage is the term used to describe a perfume wearer’s aura of fragrance. The term also refers to the ghost trails of scent briefly left in wake as the wearer moves.
It should be noted that sillage ought not be confused with the aroma of those who douse themselves so liberally that they obliterate the smell of everything else in the room; appropriate usage of the word should be stictly observed. The standard term in that case would be Shock and Awe. We here at Scentbloggers recommend against Shock and Awe.
Please Be Patient, July 16, 2006Posted by scentbloggers in Site News and Announcements.
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and bear with us. We are currently in the process of combing through all the member sites to add the links to our compendium of reviews, and it is going to take some time to go through all those archives. Thanks so much!
Round-up: Best of the Blogs July 16, 2006Posted by scentbloggers in The Scented Round-Up: Best of Blogging.
The best in the last week’s perfume blogging:
Aromascope discovers the latest release from Guerlain, the new No. 68:
Now that I think of it, it’s probably the most politically correct perfume out there today – its mission to not leave anything out is accomplished perfectly. But I can just about imagine your totally understandable reaction – golly, what does this really smell like?
March from Perfume Posse opens up the candy bag, and finds Jean Patou’s Vacances,
I … want … I want to bathe in this. Come hither, perfumed slave boys, and tend to me! Grandma’s lilac, but only if Grandma drove a Bugatti and married a member of minor European royalty.
while Patty, also from Perfume Posse tries Brulure de Rose by Parfumerie Generale and asks of readers:
I used to be of the Mr. Darcy School of Perfuming Opinion — “Once you have lost my good opinion, you have lost it forever.” It’s taken not just a few changes of mind to convince me of the error of my ways. How many tries do you give a perfume until you give up on it?
Over at Indieperfumes, talk turns towards roses:
At the moment I am taking a Rose Petal Elixer which helps to ease and balance the heart’s and mind’s emotions. There are many many perfumes and fragrances that have rose as one of the dominant notes, and I recommend highly that everyone get themselves at least a couple to have on hand for both the pleasures and emergencies of the heart.
Nina Ricci’s new fragrance Nina is reviewed at Perfume Shrine, leading to a wonderful discussion of the history of the house:
Nina has a rich tradition to follow: Nina Ricci was one of the most popular couturiers in the mid-20th century fashion scene. Born in Turin in January 1883 she started as a highly talented apprentice, before devoting herself entirely to design.
The heartbreak of watching brilliant perfumes become discontiued is fodder for talk of some unavailable favorites at Perfume-Smellin’ Things:
Djedi by Guerlain
In their Les Parisiennes collection, right next to the exquisite Attrape-Coeur, the sharply chic Derby, there exists…wait for it…Purple Fantasy! Surely, not many people would buy that insipid concoction and surely Djedi is more deserving of a place in the permanent collection.
Givenchy’s Very Irresistible and their new Millesime version of it are found to be quite possibly resistible at Scentzilla:
Unfortunately there are some of us that get only a dull rose and wood accord that just sits there like a lump. It’s pleasant, but doesn’t develop or go anywhere.
Victoria’s Own tests out JAR Fragrance’s ode to carnation, Golconda:
For me Golconda whiffs and wafts both directions, at times smelling dead-on like a bouquet of fresh cut carnations. Wet and fresh, as your nose is buried deep for that first sniff.
Someone’s gotta stick up for Clinque’s Happy Heart, and Sweet Diva is up to the task:
[...] when I wear this I can picture sitting under the umbrella in the warm sun, feeling the breeze and watching the clear turquoise water of the Gulf roll up onto the bright white sandy beach.
Perfume Critic finds a great bargain on Versace Baby Blue Jeans, and writes why it’s a pick for him:
A subtle yet tangy blend of citrus and light woods, Versace Baby Blue Jeans recalls the aroma of its bigger brother, Blue Jeans, but without the sweet, powdery edge.
Ayala, the perfumer who writes SmellyBlog gives some insight into her creative process, via use of an osmanthus note
Most of my perfumes were created before I even knew how to blog, and when I had no intention of keeping a diary. So any documentation is going to be in retrospect. [...] . Most of them have a strong connection to a person or a memory. Others were inspired by the essences themselves, and when I smell them a few months later – I realize they have created a memory already.
Anya’s Garden mentions what the internet is doing for the art of perfumery by way of a childhood story:
I’m about three years old. I’m sitting on the floor, lovingly evaluating two of my most precious bottles. I have no idea what they were. They were two of the most glorious scents my little nose had ever experienced. Sigh. Love.
Round-Up: Best of the Blogs July 11, 2006Posted by scentbloggers in The Scented Round-Up: Best of Blogging.
A round-up of the best in perfume blogging:
Bois de Jasmin takes a tour of Paris and interviews perfumer Ralf Schwieger, the creator of Hermes Eau de Merveilles, and Frederic Malle Lipstick Rose, amongst others:
“To be a perfumer, one must have curiosity and discipline. Being open-minded is a very important trait, and so is being able to take risk. Most importantly, one must not be overcome by frustration, which is an important part of a perfumer’s life,” notes Mr. Schwieger.
Estee Lauder’s Azurée body oil, made under the direction of Tom Ford is deemed lovely over at Perfume-Smellin’ Things * :
It is an indolent scent, sensual in a lazy sort of way, the smell of beautiful, tanned people, pleasantly fatigued by the sun.
*Disclosure – Perfume-Smellin’ Things is the site operated by editor Marina
Nosey News July 10, 2006Posted by scentbloggers in Nosey News.
A hard ecological and economic lesson for us all to learn: sandalwood scarcity in ‘the perfume capital of India.’
Some fragrant citrus choices, courtesy of the online edition of the Telegraph.
BombScare, by Guerlain, now available in the UK at Selfridges .
On TV this week: One of the scheduled topics for NBC’s Today Show (7AM) on Monday, July 10th, will be “the limits of perfume and cologne.” I have no idea what that phrase even means. (No linkies, sorry.)
In either case, Sean Jean’s hot new fragrance turned out to be about as discreet as a hot new stolen car. To wear it home would be unforgivable.
Hello, and Welcome to Scentbloggers July 10, 2006Posted by scentbloggers in Site News and Announcements.
Scentbloggers aims to bring you the best of perfume blogging and scent-related links on a regular basis. Round-ups of the best posts from both member blogs and some non-member blogs will be highlighted, as well as interesting tidbits and all the smelly news that’s fit to print.
We’re still in the first step of development for the site, so please visit again as the blog develops. Thanks for your readership and support!